Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
